About a quarter of all the proteins in the body are collagen, while the skin itself is about 75% collagen. You've probably read similar claims on the packaging of "beauty collagens", and there's likely also a mention that after the age of 30, collagen production declines rapidly. But does the use of collagen in dietary supplements really have an effect on your skin's hydration and the reduction of wrinkles, or is it just a useless, overpriced dietary supplement?
What is collagen?
Collagen is a protein made up of amino acids. Although it is of low nutritional quality (the DIAAS of collagen is 0), collagen plays a very important role in living organisms. It ensures the strength and elasticity of tissues.
You may come across collagen in your diet if you have broth for lunch, beef cheeks for dinner, and a gelatinous cake for dessert. However, such collagen feasts are rather uncommon, which is why collagen is popularly used in dietary supplements.
What kind of collagen can we find in supplements?
When choosing collagen supplements, take a few minutes to study the labelling of the collagen used.
1. Collagen by type
There are 28 types of collagen. The most common is type I collagen, which is typically found in the skin, where it is complemented by type III collagen. Type II collagen, which is found in cartilage, is also found in dietary supplements.
2. Collagen by source
Collagen is derived from various animal matter. If we focus on collagens for skin nutrition, the most common are porcine collagen (from the skin), bovine collagen (from the bones) or marine collagen (from the scales).
Marine collagen has been particularly popular recently and is also the most expensive source. Some studies point to its better absorption, but there are not enough comparative studies.
3. Collagen by processing
Collagen occurs in its natural form in living organisms. Industrial processing involves denaturation and, in most cases, subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis. We, therefore, buy mainly hydrolysed collagen in food supplements. Some proprietary collagens label it bioactive collagen peptides, and consequently, people are a lot more drawn to it.
Although, in some cases, the natural structure is preferred (e.g., chicken type II collagen in joint nutrition), hydrolysis is advantageous in collagens intended for skin nutrition because it provides faster absorption.
To make matters worse, some proprietary collagens are sold under their own brand names, the best‑known example being Verisol® (type I collagen), other examples being BioCell Collagen® (type II collagen, chondroitin, and hyaluronic acid) or Pure Gold Collagen® (type I collagen). The patented collagen guarantees an optimal distribution of the molecular weights of the peptide structures present and has a number of studies. The result, of course, is a higher price.
How does collagen affect skin?
The actual production of collagen decreases with increasing age, which is why many of us look for a suitable dietary source of collagen. However, our digestive system gets in the way. This is because it breaks down the collagen we eat into individual amino acids or very short peptides, meaning the body has similar "material" from it as if it had consumed any other source of protein. This does not automatically mean that collagen is a fraud, just keep in mind that "collagen in the diet = collagen in the body".
In scientific publications, two basic mechanisms of action are described:
1. Collagen peptides as a building material: hydrolysed collagen is easily digestible and thus provides the building material for the actual production of collagen and elastin. The advantage is that hydrolysed collagen provides some amino acids that other dietary proteins do not contain (hydroxyproline).
2. Collagen peptides as signal molecules: short collagen peptides that are absorbed in the small intestine can stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in fibroblasts.
Science‑based effects of collagen on skin
The use of collagen in relation to skin hydration or wrinkle reduction is a topic studied in many scientific papers. First of all, it is worth noting that the studies are in complete agreement on the health benefits of using hydrolysed collagen, which is virtually free of side effects even when used for a long time.
The most recent meta‑analysis performed is the publication by de Miranda et al. in 2021. The results were evaluated on a total of 1,125 subjects, 95% of whom were women. Based on the studies conducted, it was shown that the use of hydrolysed collagen for at least 60‑90 days has a positive effect on skin hydration and wrinkle reduction. The positive effect was observed even 30 days after the supplementation. The findings are in agreement with a previous meta‑analysis by Barati et al. in 2020.
A special category is patented collagens, the best‑known example on the Czech market being Verisol® collagen. It can be bovine, porcine or fish, but in all cases, it guarantees an optimal distribution of the molecular weights of the peptides present.
Collagen peptides have been studied in at least five scientific studies, most often at a dose of 2.5g per day. The latest fish collagen has been tested at a dose of 5g per day. All studies have come to positive results from the use of this type of collagen. A certain flaw is that all the studies carried out with Verisol® collagen have been conducted by the same scientists from the University of Kiel and the Collagen Research Institute in Kiel.
How much collagen to boost skin health?
Studies working with hydrolysed collagen use a daily dose of between 1‑10g of collagen hydrolysate. The most commonly used doses are 2.5‑5g of hydrolysed collagen per day.
Beware of a sufficient dose of hydrolysed collagen, especially in the case of gelatine capsules, as only about 0.5g of hydrolysed collagen fits into one capsule. Therefore, choose a product where the dosage is set so that the suggested dose of hydrolysed collagen is sufficient.
Collagen Complex with Hyaluronic Acid
Bottom line
The positive effect of hydrolysed collagen on skin and skin health can be considered proven. Likewise, various mechanisms by which collagen may act have been proposed. The optimal dose seems to be about 2.5‑5 g of hydrolysed collagen per day. Taking it for at least 4‑8 weeks is advisable for visible results.
However, remember to follow healthy lifestyle principles, which often have a much greater impact on skin health. Ensure adequate intake of protein, fruits, and vegetables, protect yourself from UV rays, limit alcohol and cigarette use, and follow a healthy sleeping pattern.
