Chemicals in Cosmetics: A Real Threat or An Overblown Concern?

Reviewed by Mgr. Kristýna Kovářová and PhDr. Barbora Matějčková
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Chemicals in Cosmetics: A Real Threat or An Overblown Concern?
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  • Skincare and decorative cosmetics are a daily staple for a high percentage of people.
  • The topic of "harmful substances" in cosmetics is the subject of many internet articles, but the information provided isn't always entirely accurate or relevant.
  • National and EU regulation and legislation are very advanced in this respect, but people with skin conditions or sensitive skin should be careful when choosing cosmetics.

Are you concerned about the ingredients in your beauty products? During countless discussions, you may encounter warnings about substances such as parabens or phthalates. This article explores why these ingredients are used, clarifies the current regulatory situation, and examines whether their negative reputation is truly justified.

Is this a major problem?

The issue of "irritants" in cosmetics is a major topic with potential implications for both consumers and the environment. Many commonly used substances in cosmetic products — such as parabens, phthalates, and formaldehyde — are frequently (and sometimes wrongly) associated with various health problems. These include skin reactions like eczema and psoriasis, as well as broader issues such as hormone disruption.

Increasing consumer awareness of cosmetic ingredients has put pressure on the industry to reduce the use of certain substances and improve transparency about product composition. Regulatory authorities in many countries conduct regular checks to ensure the safety and quality of cosmetic products (e.g., toxic cosmetics cannot be legally sold within the EU). However, challenges remain, particularly with substances that may negatively affect individuals with sensitive skin or pre‑existing conditions.

That’s why it’s always worth checking the ingredients of the products you buy or looking around for a gentler alternative. Apps like Wewell and INCI Beauty can be handy tools, providing instant analysis of ingredients and alerting you to potential irritants. Nevertheless, consulting a doctor or dermatologist should always be your first priority if you have concerns.

Often discussed substances (and what's the verdict?)

It’s important to remember that the substances or compounds discussed here are not considered dangerous to health at the concentrations typically found in cosmetic products. However, risks may arise if they are used excessively or by individuals with specific conditions or sensitive skin.

  • Parabens: a group of chemicals with preservative properties widely used not only in cosmetics but also in pharmaceutical products. These include methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and heptylparaben. Parabens are synthetically produced by esterifying para‑hydroxybenzoic acid with alcohols such as methanol or ethanol. They are added to products to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mould, extending shelf life. Some studies (mainly in animals) have suggested that parabens may interact with oestrogen receptors, potentially increasing the risk of certain cancers. However, studies based on observation of people exposed to parabens have so far, in most cases, not supported these theories, pointing out that the signalling pathways in the body are so complex that there is currently insufficient evidence to prove that parabens are harmful. The conclusions of the studies indicate that parabens have a low potential to cause irritation in healthy individuals. Cases of adverse reactions are more commonly seen in those with pre‑existing skin conditions.
  • Phthalates: chemical compounds that are mainly used as plasticisers to increase the flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity of plastics. These colourless, odourless, oily liquids are found in a wide range of consumer products, including cosmetics, fragrances, paints, and food packaging. Concerns about phthalates often focus on their potential impact on the reproductive system. There is evidence suggesting that they may contribute to the development of certain chronic diseases. However, most studies have examined exposure through packaging materials and ingestion. In the EU, the use of certain types of phthalates is strictly regulated and banned in cosmetics, food packaging and children’s toys, ensuring consumer safety.
  • Formaldehyde: an organic compound with a pungent or acrid odour, commonly used as a disinfectant, preservative (in cosmetics), and a component in polymers. However, formaldehyde is classified as a carcinogen, meaning it can increase the risk of cancer, particularly through repeated or high‑concentration inhalation. The European Food Safety Authority notes that the evidence linking formaldehyde to similar risks through ingestion or other routes of exposure is less clear. Consequently, EU regulations strictly limit the amount of formaldehyde in packaging materials, and it is banned.
  • Sulphates: these include sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate (SLES). These are substances used in cosmetic products and detergents mainly for their foaming properties and their ability to remove impurities. They are most commonly added to shampoos, soaps and toothpaste. Their disadvantage is that they can be an irritant to some people and cause skin irritation and hair drying, especially in people with sensitive skin or pre‑existing skin conditions.
Chemicals in Cosmetics: A Real Threat or An Overblown Concern?

How to recognise a product with "added value"

  • Organic an Natural Certification: The certification ensures the products comply with strict rules, which focuses on natural and organic farming practices.
  • Fair trade products: products labelled as Fair Trade support producers in developing countries and promote sustainable development. This certification guarantees fair prices, adherence to social and environmental standards, and ethical support for communities in need.
  • The Leaping bunny: The Leaping Bunny certification ensures that products and their ingredients have not been tested on animals. 
  • Organic products: made with natural, organic and plant‑based ingredients, with the aim of minimising exposure to synthetic substances.

Bottom line

Many commonly used cosmetic products may contain potentially irritating substances, such as parabens, phthalates, or sulphates. This topic is frequently discussed online, with some sources highlighting the lack of definitive evidence while emphasising the risks of substances already banned in the European Union. The truth is that the safety of cosmetic products is very high in the EU. However, people with sensitive skin or pre‑existing conditions should remain cautious when selecting products.

It’s also worth paying close attention to the quality of the products you purchase. Of the substances mentioned above, phthalates, in particular, deserve attention, as they are currently the subject of scientific research, and certain phthalates proven to be hazardous have already been banned in the EU for use in cosmetics and packaging materials.

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